Admiralty Buildings:birthplace of Charles Jarvis V.C.

Admiralty Buildings. The spire of the West parish Church just visible above the roof tops

 More familiar locally as 'The Coastguard Houses' this terrace backing on to the Links was built in 1869 by the Admiralty who leased the site from Lord Saltoun. The buildings consisted of a house for the coastguard station officer and six cottages for his staff and provided storage for the life saving apparatus. The two storey watch room would have had clear views of the sea across Fraserburgh Bay and over towards Cairnbulg Briggs. 

Charles Alfred Jarvis, eldest son of a Fraserburgh coastguard, the first soldier to be awarded a VC in WW1 was born here in 1881 shortly before his father was transferred to Rattray. Lance-Cpl Jarvis earned his VC for his bravery in blowing up the Bridge of Jemappes on 23^rd August 1914, during the retreat from Mons. Jarvis Court sheltered Housing and Day care Centre in the Fraserburgh is named in honour of Charles Jarvis. 

The front of the terrace on Saltoun Place

Millton of Cairnbulg

At Milltown of Cairnbulg, directly opposite Cairnbulg Castle, the Line crosses a small farm road and what was once a mill lade . The cast iron bridge carrying the Line was reconstructed in 1927 as part of a wider programme of bridge reconstruction on the Line. 

Milltown of Cairnbulg bridge looking up the Line towards Fraserburgh

A notice regarding the expiry of the lease of  Milltown of Cairnbulg, then part of the Philorth Estate, which appeared in the Aberdeen Journal, Wednesday 8^th July  1812, gives a fascinating insight into farming  methods at the time:   

‘lying in a centrical situation, and in a fertile district of the country; within a few miles of the town and Harbour of  Fraserburgh,and about thirteen from Peterhead, to both which towns, as well as to Aberdeen, there are good turnpike roads going through the Estate.  The Lands are entitled to take Sea Ware and Shell Sand from the shore of Cairnbulg, where there is abundance of these manures, as well as an easy access of procuring dung from the fishing village, and the towns above-mentioned.’

The farm is no longer part of the Philorth Estate, nor is it a mill.

Lonmay Station, through Spillarsford to Craigellie

The section of Line between Lonmay Station and Craigellie is usually extremely wet and difficult to negotiate, particularly between Spillarsford and Craigellie where stagnant water often covers the pathway. We took advantage of a hard frost to re walk this otherwise attractive stretch. 

Looking from Spillarsford towards Craigellie. Despite the frost there was a bright sprinkling of gorse flowers and  a few silky pussy willow catkins opening on line side trees. The morning felt spring-like as the sun rapidly melted the frost. There were larks singing overhead, skeins of geese heading inland from Strathbeg reserve and a small flock of lapwings tumbling  in the air on the Craigellie side of the Line.

Cortes village seen from just north of Lonmay Station. Originally this small settlement, close to the Peterhead Fraserburgh Turnpike,   was known as Spillarsford from the farm, now a ruin, seen in the trees on the extreme right. Cortes House is about half a mile to the west of the village.The hamlet is actually in Rathen parish being on the Rathen side of the Ellie Burn, the boundary between Lonmay and Rathen. The name Lonmay is thought to be derived from 'Long meadow' and the district has long been famed for the quality of the early potatoes grown on the sandy podsol. The 3rd Statistical account (1960) records the production of seed potatoes for export to England and South Africa. Earlier editions of the Statistical Account indicate that the area contained extensive bog and has been laboriously reclaimed.During the 19th century seaweed, carted from the shores at Cairnbulg and St Combs was used as an effective fertiliser. 

Cairness House seen from the Line near Spillarsford Farm.

The estates of Cairness, Craigellie and Crimonmogate sprawl to the east of the Line, Cortes House is to the west close to  the junction of the Aberdeen to Fraserburgh and Peterhead to Fraserburgh turnpikes.

Spillarsford Farm, long abandoned and now an unseemly ruin on the Lonmay side of the Ellie. 

Close to the Line a little to the north of Spillarsford Farm, this set of ruins,inhabited until the 1970s,  once a mill and  rather more picturesque than the farm, was reached by  a rack running across the fields from Spillarsford.

The lower of the mill ruins, the bank between the mill and the burn has drifts of snow drops.

The beautifully detailed1st edition 25 inch to the mile OS map, dated 1870, shows the mill wheel in position on the gable end of this building, just above the  snowdrops. It also shows a small body of water close to the buildings, probably the mill dam, and the mill lade running under the bridge over the Line from which these photographs were taken. 

Hillhead of Craigellie Farm, the tower is an ornamental dove cot, rising incongruously from the steading. The trees in the background are part of the Craigellie policies.

The 1870 OS map shows a small cluster of cottages at Spillarsford of these the Poorhouse seen above and Station Cottage, below are labelled. This poor house served Rathen parish. A locally administered poorhouse was established in Rathen by 1860. Map evidence indicates that it  seems to have become defunct by around 1900 when  a new edition of the OS map was published.

This large imposing building at Lonmay Station (above) was the bank, the station agent lived in the small cottage below, Station Cottage, Spillarsford.There was also a shoemaker and small general store amongst the cluster of Spillarsford houses. Lonmay Station, yet another relatively isolated station, was convenient for Crimonmogate. In season shooting parties alighted at Lonmay and there was a typically large turning area for coaches and carriages outside the station. At the height of the herring season it was common for open fish wagons waiting for the Fraserburgh catch to be held at the sidings at Lonmay until there was room at Fraserburgh.